Is Luxembourg Worth Visiting?
Is Luxembourg Worth Visiting? We visited Luxembourg City as a family with no idea what to expect, no preconceptions. Much of the core activities are free and outdoors, but there are plenty of indoor options too. ALL PUBLIC TRANSPORT IS FREE ACROSS THE ENTIRE COUNTRY (Amazeballs). This is what makes it a worthwhile city break and here’a a guide to the things you must see.
Pfaffenthal Elevator & Viewing Platform // Pfaffenthal-Kirchberg Funicular // The Grund // Chemin de la Corniche // MUDAM // Luxembourg Sign & National Philharmonie // Les Arts des Passerelles Walkway // Municipal Park // Natural History Museum // Freedom Monument // Notre Dame Cathedral // Petrusse Park & Skatepark // Bock Casemates // Melusina Mermaid // Fountains at Place Guillaume II // Fëschmaart // Where to Stay // Food & Drink
Day One – Is Luxembourg Worth Visiting?
Luxembourg City is relatively compact and walkable, with free public transport to use as you desire, so I’m sharing our route so you can see what’s achievable in a day (even with kids). This city is full of natural beauty for a capital, and offers split-level living with the city connected by an array of funiculars, elevators and walkways.
Pfaffenthal Elevator & Viewpoint
FREE We started at the top of the Pfaffenthal Elevator as it intrigued us the most. Fantastic views on the glass-bottomed viewing platform (not for everyone!) and a free 71m swift descent down to the Alzette Valley, which we wandered around, even finding a playground with sun loungers for adults (result!). From there we walked to the Pfaffenthal-Kirchberg Funicular.
Pfaffenthal-Kirchberg Funicular
FREE Our kids love a funicular. The Pfaffenthal-Kirchberg one is free with no queues, and was an attraction in itself. Plus it links the train station with the higher Kirchberg, Ville-Haute area.
Luxembourg Sign & Philharmonie Luxembourg
FREE We next grabbed a photo opp at the Luxembourg sign (quite a lot of letters to fit in a snapshot!). The Philharmonie is worth admiring from the outside, stunning architecture, similar to the opera house in Oslo and Sydney. [We carried on to see the Court of Justice of the European Union, but there wasn’t much to see, quite underwhelming so I wouldn’t recommend this.]
Passerelle des Arts – Is Luxembourg Worth Visiting?
FREE From there we walked to the elegant curving Passerelle des Arts that takes pedestrians and cyclists through the canopy of the Trois Glands state forest. So lovely to be elevated so high up. The walkway was built to connect the Kirchberg region with the MUDAM art gallery so it felt rude not to visit.
MUDAM – Is Luxembourg Worth Visiting?
The cutting edge architecture of the museum of modern art (designed by IM Pei) can simply be admired from the outside, but the artworks are so quirky and imaginative it’s worth stepping indoors. My boys really enjoyed the galleries, as each piece was surprising and captured the imagination. We saw huge ink fountains, a vast array of dead plants, rubbish and litter all over the stairwells and floor (is this art or just rubbish mummy?). A surprise hit for us. FREE WEDNESDAY 1800-2100, otherwise adults €10.00 and Under 21s free.
Municipal Park Luxembourg
FREE We relaxed outdoors within the Municipal park, which is formal with its perfect flower beds and elegant fountains but relaxed nonetheless. Join locals enjoying their lunch breaks or grabbing a breath of fresh air. Kids can romp around the playground and pirate ship.
Notre Dame Cathedral
FREE After grabbing lunch, hot chocolate and ice cream in the city centre (see food & drink recommendations below) we walked to the city’s cathedral. Its foundation stone was laid in 1613 with stained glass from the 19th and 20th century. Behind the cathedral look out for the Kaddish Monument that commemorates Luxembourg’s victims of the Holocaust.
Freedom Monument Gëlle Fra
FREE A few metres from the Cathedral is the striking golden Gëlle Fra. A competition was announced in 1920 to create a monument to remember the thousands of Luxembourg soldiers lost in WW1. The design by Claus Cito won, an angel of peace atop an obelisk, and his creation was inaugurated in May 1923.
Petrusse Park & Skatepark
FREE From Gëlle Fra descend into the Petrusse Park. This has a wilder, more natural feel than the Muncipal Park. Wander the pathways, stroll along the riverside, and don’t miss Petrusse Skatepark. Situated underneath the sweeping Viaduct it may be the coolest location for a skatepark in Europe.
Fountains of Place Guillaume II
FREE We ended our day at Place Guillaume II where our hotel was situated. The kids cooled down in the fountains while us parents watched them caper from the outdoor terrace at Bazaar bar and restaurant. They were soaked!
Where to Stay – Hotel Vauban
The three-star Hotel Vauban provides everything you need. Fantastic location close to everything you need to see and everywhere you want to eat and drink. It serves a set continental breakfast. Alongside smart hotel rooms Hotel Vauban also offers apartments with kitchenettes, ideal for families.
DAY TWO – Is Luxembourg Worth Visiting?
Walk the Corniche & Admire the Grund
FREE Admire Luxembourg’s Old Town (known as The Grund) from the Chemin de la Corniche, dubbed ‘the most beautiful balcony of Europe’. It runs along the Alzette valley on the city’s ramparts, and offers sweeping views across the city.
Bock Casemates – Is Luxembourg Worth Visiting?
This defence system was built into a promontory so photos always look like you’re underground but it’s actually like tunnels cut into a cliff so at various points you (and the cannons) get great views over the city. It didn’t feel claustrophobic, the kids loved the adventure, and it’s a slice of history as these tunnels were originally around 23 kilometres long, carved into the rock in the 17th century under Spanish rule. Adults €18.00, children 4-12 €9.00. [A similar attraction in the city are the Petrusse Casemates].
Melusina Mermaid & River Walk
FREE – This vivid purpley-pink mermaid is the work of artist Serge Ecker, created by 3D printing. The legend goes that the beautiful Melusina agreed to marry Count Siegfried (who established the city of Luxembourg in 963) with the proviso that she was permitted to spend every Saturday morning alone and uninterrupted. After years of happy marriage the Count broke his promise, spied on his wife, and spotted her mermaid’s tail, and the marriage was doomed.
National Museum of History & Art / Fëschmaart
FREE Situated on the site of a former fish market (hence the name) this three-floor museum offers a real mix of art, photography, artefacts, Egyptian finds, even an old apothecary shop. There was a bit of everything there.
National Museum of Natural History Museum
FREE FOR KIDS This is a huge hit with families. As well as covering wildlife, space travel and genetics, with lots of animals, interactive hands-on displays and films, there’s a giant slide connecting the first floor with the ground floor. Result! FREE TUESDAY 1730-2000, otherwise Adult ticket €5, kids free.
Food & Drink – Is Luxembourg Worth Visiting?
Highlights for Luxembourg specialties include Um Dierfgen (very friendly service). It dishes up the traditional pork and beans in classic surroundings. Brasserie du Cercle is a stylish venue, but still serves up local dishes. Highlights include the tarte flambee (like a thin crispy pizza) and giant vol au vonts. For price, you can’t beat shopping at supermarket Monoprix on Place Guillaume II, then dining on your purchases at their pink outdoor seating. Another budget offering for meat lovers is Telio for dine-in kebabs and pitas.
For sweet treats we enjoyed hot chocolate on the terrace at Genaveh, and the kids made two stops at Dolce Come ice cream. There can be queues here but they move fast.
Children are welcome in every bar we went into. We stopped for drinks en famille at Luxembourg’s oldest bar Ennert de Steiler. We loved champagne bar Flutes Alors! that sells bubbles by the glass. And we chilled in the deep armchairs of Kaale Kaffi surrounded by the vibrant artwork on the walls. Have fun!
For more info browse Visit Luxembourg.
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