Things to do in Aix-en-Provence with kids
Things to do in Aix-en-Provence – I assumed Aix-en-Provence was a tiny lavender-scented town, but it’s actually a small, pretty city, just a half hour drive from Marseilles and its airport. We visited with our children, in low season October.
Lavender / Calissons / Italian Quarter / Paul Cézanne / Fountains / Cours Mirabeau / Markets / Granet Museum / Vasarely Foundation / WW2 Interment Camp / Where to Stay
Indulge in Lavender – Things to do in Aix-en-Provence
Aix-en-Provence is synonymous with lavender. Obviously it doesn’t grow in huge amounts in the city centre, and the fields can only be visited seasonally (June to August). During summer there are an array of tours to choose between, starting from roughly £9, but if you visit out of season like we did, simply drop by one of the city’s lavender boutiques for a spot of shopping – soaps, drawers sachet, pot pourri – our kids enjoyed sniffing it all out. I made purchases in Maison de la Lavande on Rue Gaston de Saporta.
Try the Local Calissons Treats
These tiny almond delights are a speciality of Aix-en-Provence, so you may see them feature in local desserts or even served at breakfast in hotels. It’s easy to buy boxes to bring home or eat there and then. Key names to look out for include Puyricard, Le Roy René, Brémond and Léonard Parli. Walking tours with Calissons tastings can be booked here.
City of a Thousand Fountains
FREE This is quite an overstatement, I wasn’t overwhelmed by fountains in this small city, but we did notice some very handsome ones. A highlight is the ornate Fontaine Rotunde at the end of the elegant Cours Mirabeau. The city is proud of its watery connections, since it was created by the Romans and ‘Aix’ is Latin for ‘waters’ or ‘aquas’.
Stroll Down Cours Mirabeau
FREE The expansive tree-lined Cours Mirabeau is Aix-en-Provence’s main thoroughfare. With cafés and high-end shops on either side, it’s a place to see and be seen. When we went for a wander on a Saturday a bustling street market, selling reasonably priced clothing, was buzzing with people.
Visit the Local Markets – Things to do in Aix-en-Provence
FREE France does know how to do a good street market, but Aix-en-Provence takes it to the next level. The Flower Market on Town Hall Square was a highlight for all ages, as it’s fragrant, bright and colourful. What’s not to love? A Foodie Market holds court at Place Richelme. And I’ve mentioned the fashions on Cours Mirabeau above. Dates can changes with seasonality, so it’s best to check what’s running just before you visit.
Book a Walking and Tasting Tour of the Markets
Learn More about Artist, Paul Cézanne
The most famed and loved Aix-en-Provence local is impressionist painter Paul Cézanne, and there is at least a trio of ways to discover more about him.
Visit his Studio
Step inside Cézanne’s restful studio at Ateliers des Lauves. Accessible via tours only, these guided tours book up well ahead and, when we visited, you couldn’t buy tickets on the door at all (only online, in advance) so don’t think you can play this one by ear or see what the weather’s like. If it’s of interest, get organised! An adult ticket is €9.50.
Jas de Bouffan Mansion
It’s a similar story at Cézanne’s family home, Jas de Bouffan. Again, get your tickets in advance to get on a tour. An adult ticket is €9.50.
Cézanne Walking Trail
FREE For a free option, follow the Gold ‘C’ tiles (for Cézanne) on the pavement. The trail starts with a statue of the artist in the Place de la Rotunde, and then carries on to very detailed sites, for example Cézanne’s school, his sister’s home, the church where his mother’s funeral was held, so I feel you’d need to be a big fan to be interested by this level of detail.
Granet Museum – Things to do in Aix-en-Provence
A solid artistic option in all weathers is visiting the Granet Museum. It not only boasts works by Cézanne, Van Gogh and Monet but also by Van Gogh and Picasso. Free for under 18s, adults are €6.50, all guests are free the first Sunday of the month.
Visit the Italian Quarter
FREE to VISIT Rue d’Italie is the heart of Aix’s Italian Quarter. If you fancy mixing up French flavours for some Franco-Italian inspo, this is the place to go. A local specialty is pissaladière, a pizza-like tart, with French and Italian influences. We visited Hat’s boulangerie that did a great range of focaccia sandwiches and amazing cookies, cakes and pastries for dessert – I loved the pistachio cookies and truffle focaccia.
Make a Pitstop – Things to do in Aix-en-Provence
If you want to rest your legs and grab a drink, it’s lovely to find an outdoor terrace with a mix of shaded and sun-trap seating. A highlight for us was Forum des Cardeurs, and we enjoyed local wines and Camembert roti at Pompette.
Let Them Eat Cake – Things to do in Aix-en-Provence
Arguably the city’s most famous cake shop, with indoor and outdoor seating plus takeaway, is Weibels. It can be super popular and busy, but take a look at this.
Slightly Outside the Centre of Town
Vasarely Foundation
The geometric colourful art within the Vasarely Foundation was a far bigger hit with my children than I expected. The artworks are bold, mathematical, bright, transfixing and play with your perspective. I found it quite expensive (€40 for a family ticket), considering the size of the gallery, but the children really engaged with the pieces.
Camp des Milles Internment Camp
This interment camp is a slice of challenging history from WW2, as the Camp des Milles site became a first stop for Jews, and others, whose end destination was the concentration camps. Many artists and creatives were held here, so alongside toilet cubicles, buildings and machinery, it’s also possible to see artworks that were etched into the walls.
One criticism, the camp understandably makes a big stance about how important it is to spread the word against the hatred and conditions that led to the Holocaust, but then failed to put English subtitles on their French documentary films. Films are naturally more powerful, educational and cut through far quicker (especially for children) than display boards. To me, this was a missed opportunity as it’s obviously best to communicate in a very common language, so I hope the funds can be raised to add subtitles and aid communication. Family ticket – €40. Discover more here.
Where to Stay
Very central Mid-Range option with Heated Pool
Newly refurbished Grand Hotel Roi René is just a stone’s throw from the key sites and streets of Aix-en-Provence. It has an expansive swimming pool courtyard, ideal for sunbathing, book reading adults, and swimming and splashing for all ages. To have a hotel with a pool so central is a boon. The food is also to a high quality, and the breakfast was imaginative as well as good – coconut chia was a highlight for me. Discover prices and availability here.
Budget Option with Heated Pool
The Novotel Pont de L’Arc rooms are simple and clean. The pool was very relaxing, and we couldn’t argue with the price (especially considering there was a heated pool!). The outdoor foosball also entertained our lads. The hotel’s cheaper because it’s on the outskirts of town, so you need a car or cabs/public transport (parking is easy and free on site). This Novotel doesn’t serve dinner so you need to head back into town to dine. Check prices and availability here.
We hope you enjoy Aix-en-Provence!
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Discover more with the local Tourist Board.
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