Things to do in Ile de Re France – chic island life

Things to do in Ile de Re, France – This effortlessly chic, relaxed French island has an upmarket holiday vibe, and attractive whitewashed villages. Romantic, yet family friendly, we visited, as a family of four, in the high season of July yet discovered a quiet calm and always managed to secure a good table!

 

Getting There is Simple, but Part of the Story

Ile de Re, on the west coast of France, is thankfully linked to the mainland by bridge so it’s super easy to reach. The crossing fee only applies one way and it’s €16 at the time of writing. The island is full of sandy beaches, but if you simply can’t wait then Sablanceau Beach is just to your right as you arrive.

Cycling Ile de Re

Ile de Re is synonymous with cycling, with miles of car free cycle paths used by all ages for commuting, exercise and leisure. You can cycle from any town but I recommend picking up bikes in Ars-en-Re to follow a scenic circular route, we rented ours from Les Cycles N for €42 for a half day for a family of four, but there are bike rental shops peppered across town. We also received a handy map. From Ars-en-Re we cycled through town, down past the harbour, following the clearly signposted cycle path till we reached the Lighthouse of the Whales, or Phare des Baleines. 

Lighthouse or Phare des Baleines

The 57-metre tall Lighthouse of the Whales is a tourist attraction in its own right, you can pay to visit the museum or ascend the 257-step tower itself, but it’s also a scenic stop with a vast bicycle park to lock up your bike. Browse stalls, dine in a restaurant, grab a drink or ice cream. The island’s famous Martiniere ice cream is here, but we were blown away by the flavour and generous portions at Jf Duport Glaces Gourmet Place.

La Conche Beach

Just a few metres from the lighthouse is the island’s much-loved sandy beach of La Conche. With life guards present in high season, and oodles of golden sand it’s a family friendly option whether you arrive here by bike or not.

Lunch at Les-Portes-en-Re in La Bazenne

Our cycle route carried on through woodlands to the town of Les-Portes-en-Re, a natural lunch pitstop. We had to briefly queue to eat the popular La Bazenne, but as we tucked into oysters and mussels it was worth the wait. I’d advise booking if you’re visiting the restaurant on foot/by car, but as we were cycling I wasn’t confident of our arrival time.

Ile de Re Salt Marshes

The return leg of the loop to Ars-en-Re pedals right through the island’s famous salt marshes. See the salt glistening in the sun, pick some salt up from honesty stalls dotted at the roadside and witness a harvest rich in history and heritage.

Ile de Re Nature Reserve

This route also passes through the Lilleau des Niges nature reserve, renowned for its birdlife. Cycling is a beautiful pace to see nature, from the wildlife to the salt. Finally, pedal back to the tranquil Ars-en-Re.

Other Ars-en-Re Highlights

Wander the Whitewashed Streets & Step Inside the Church

The towns of Ile de Re are staggeringly yet seemingly effortlessly pretty. While the island capital of Saint-Martin-de-Re is suitably bustling, the whitewashed streets of Ars-en-Re had a peacefulness and solitude even in July.  I saw more people on the cycle paths than meandering through the streets. Make the most of this chic setting and step inside the church Saint-Etienne for a moment of reflection.

Ars-en-Re Harbour – Comic Shop and Ice Cream

The town’s harbour is a natural gathering point. I grabbed an excellent violet-flavoured ice cream from Les Givres to enjoy in the summer sun. A more niche offering is a very cool comic, manga and book store, but it was such a treasure trove, so take a browse in Le Petite Bouquinerie.

Dine at Le Cafe du Commerce

Also at the harbour, I opted to dine at Le Cafe du Commerce because it’s got views over the water, has an extensive quality menu, and is attractive inside and out. The interior boasts a Tiffany window and a bar shipped over from Boston, which apparently includes a bullet hole!

Galleries

With several art galleries dotted around Ars-en-Re and exhibitions running in public buildings and private galleries, the town has an artistic bent.

Stay at Le Senechal

Le Senechal is a boutique hotel with a very calming air, with a small but relaxing heated pool, plus internal courtyards bedecked with flowers and plants where guests meet, read, drink and take in the sun. There are also two lounges, with one serving complimentary tea and coffee each evening. Lofts and houses provide family friendly options, plus there’s a self-contained villa with its own swimming pool. While the hotel doesn’t serve lunch, dinner or alcohol, its central location makes dining out straightforward. Check availability at Le Senechal here. 

Ile de Re’s Capital – Saint-Martin-de-Re

Do you really know Ile de Re if you haven’t explored its capital? There’s definitely a buzz here, but the pastel and white streets are still understatedly gorgeous.

Port & Bistro du Marin

There are many excellent places to eat but people naturally congregate near the water’s edge at the port. After taking into the yachts and expensive boats, we headed to a local recommendation Bistro du Marin. Understated, busy but friendly, the waiter took time to explain dishes handwritten on the chalkboard, but expect traditional seafood, beef and pork. I was delighted with my scallops. Just rocking up in July, we got a table inside without a wait, but outdoor dining was more sought after.

Seafood Restaurant Le Tout du Cru

Another recommendation that I cannot fault was Le Tout du Cru. With wooden table and chairs, simple tablecloths and retro prints and artefacts on the wall, it had a cosy feel. We feasted on blue lobster and brown crab. Delicious.

 

Brunch at La Baronnie

A Sunday treat is booking brunch at the elegant yet central mansion house of La Baronnie. A buffet of oysters, French cheeses, cured meats, smoked trout and more awaits. A very civilised way to spend a weekend.

Shopping in Saint-Martin-de-Re

The shops in Saint-Martin-de-Re are a visitor experience in their own right. Here’s why.

Buy Ile de Re’s Famous Salt

As mentioned, Ile de Re is renowned for its salt, so we bought gift packs for friends at Esprit du Sel.

Buy Ile de Re’s Indulgent Soap

Alongside salt, Ile de Re is known for its soap made from donkey milk. There are several soap shops in town but the violet scented soap I bought at Loix & Savons scents the house beautifully and reminds me of our holiday. I also chose caramel and fig scented soaps. So pretty as well!

Fashion Shops – Ile de Re

The clothes shops on Ile de Re actually suited my style, picking up two pieces at 29, where every item is €29 (cash only). Other stores I liked the look of were Molly Bracken for footwear, Station 1995 for menswear, Pile ou Face for swimwear, Mon Chien Ado’Re for dog owners, plus Equateur for women’s fashion.

Ile de Re Ice Cream

La Martiniere is renowned for its ice cream. Situated by the water, there’s often a queue but it moves remarkably quickly.

 

Explore the Fortifications and Citadel of Saint-Martin-de-Re

A walking tour is a great way to appreciate the Unesco charm of the capital, noted as a ‘fortified town’. Historical info and local titbits add to the drama.

 

Where to Stay in Saint-Martin-de Re

I have a real fondness for La Baronnie, a mansion house that was bought by Louis XVI for Marie Antoinette. It boasts an extensive garden peppered with sun loungers and a heated outdoor pool. Despite this tranquil idyll, the hotel is desperately central, and from the front you’d never guess how large and extensive the property and grounds are. La Baronnie also houses a spa using luxury Cinq Mondes products.

While the hotel works wonderfully for couples, it’s also surprisingly family friendly, with bunk bed ante-rooms giving parents and children space. Plus there’s a self-contained villa with its own pool too. The bar serves excellent cocktails and platters, but for a more substantial evening meal head out to the restaurants mentioned above. Secure parking is available for a fee, which is handy in the capital. Check prices and availability here.

Coastal Resort Hotel & Spa

If you fancy more of a resort holiday vibe, with a spa that will blow you away, then look no further than Relais Thalasso Atalante. The decor has that beach house vibe, and the hotel offers both indoor and outdoor heated pools with multiple wellness perks, from a shower trail before you enter the steam room, to jets, massage zones, sprays and fountains in the indoor pool. Our kids were entertained for hours.

This hotel is a destination in it own right, by the shoreline, but with two restaurants and bars onsite, you don’t need to leave unless you wish to. The Menu du Marche in the Atalante restaurant is good value, and kids can order half portions – I thoroughly recommend the octopus starter and beef cheek main. Check prices and room options here.

We loved our time on Ile de Re. These are our highlights of this memorable island escape, and I hope you have a fantastic time too.

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