Northumberland with Kids
Northumberland with Kids– If you’re considering a break in Northumberland then all I can say is DO IT. Curious castles (enough to rival my home of Aberdeenshire), glorious beaches, castles on beaches, gardens, dragons, Harry Potter and broomsticks! We spent seven nights here, and still have more to see. With welcoming holiday cottages, plus so much history and grandeur it’s a place for you and any mini Vikings, saints, knights or princesses to shine.
Rather than a random list, I’ve tried to section things in a sensible geographic order!
1 – Alnwick Castle – Things to Do in Northumberland with Kids
To give you a sense of the vibe, a Christmas special of the glam Downton Abbey was filmed here, but it’s best known as a location in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. To this end, free broomstick lessons are available (but book up swiftly because these are popular). Kids also learn to levitate their brooms/wands. Children are prioritised, but if there’s room (on the broom) then adults can have a bash too. If you don’t get a place or your kids aren’t comfortable with organised fun, give it a crack independently like we did. Bring some sticks and get flying!
Dragon’s Quest is currently closed, but will hopefully reopen soon. It’s another free but swiftly booked up experience, so try to get organised. It’s an indoor event, meeting scary dragons and spooky witches, so perhaps not ideal for tiny tots, but suitably freaky for most children. Alternatively, do your own thing, perhaps downloading the Battle Cry Trail for kids to follow.
Step inside to appreciate the palatial state rooms, open 10:30am – 4.30pm daily. The grounds and exteriors are grand in their own right, with plenty of kids to run around. Discover prices and visitor info click here.
[Alnwick Castle and Alnwick Gardens are two separate attractions, requiring separate tickets. But they are neighbours so you can park up for the day for a few quid.]
Book: From Edinburgh – Bamburgh & Alnwick Castle
2 – Alnwick Garden – Northumberland with Kids
KIDS GET FREE ENTRY – The Duchess of Northumberland has created a truly imaginative garden that was (surprisingly) my seven year old’s favourite experience of the whole holiday. This is no elegant but slightly dull stately garden, Alnwick Garden surprises and captivates at every turn.
For a staggering first impression take in the glorious Great Cascade, 120 dancing water jets creating a series of waterfalls. Then creep into the Poison Garden that reveals the dark and deadly side of plants, and the way they’ve been used by murderers over the years (my boys were fascinated). Three hundred cherry trees grace the cherry orchard, where around fifty swing benches make for a potentially romantic setting. My tots always love a maze – the Bamboo Labyrinth allowed them to get sufficiently lost. And the Serpent Garden involves ducking in and out of yew hedges in search of several tactile and lively water sculptures. My kids got very wet at the biggest fountain called Torricelli, so perhaps bring a change of clothes! Ticket info – Children get free entry, and adults are £9.35 – bargain!
When in Alnwick, take a few minutes to drop by one of England’s largest independent book shops called Barter Books. Snuggle up on their inviting sofas, with a good book obvs. And, yes, it is possible to trade or barter books 🙂
3 Northumberland Country Zoo – Things to Do in Northumberland with Kids
Only twelve miles from Alnwick is Northumberland Country Zoo in Morpeth. In terms of animals we’re talking Scottish wild cats, axolotl, meerkats, otters, wallabies and lemurs. You won’t see big beasts, such as tigers or elephants, but smaller, cuter creatures for little ones to enjoy. Family tickets range from £32-£59.50 depending on the size of your family.
4 – Alnmouth Beach
A short drive from both Alnwick and the zoo is the renowned sandy Alnmouth Beach. We spent the morning at the zoo before chilling out at the beach for a few hours before heading home. Beautiful expansive sandy coastline.
5 Dunstanburgh Castle, Craster & Embleton Bay
This coastal walk to Dunstanburgh Castle reminded me of one of my favourite Scottish hikes from Stonehaven to the ruins of Dunnottar Castle. In Northumberland, visitors park up at the fishing village of Craster with its picturesque harbour. Hikers often grab a bite to eat at the famous Piper’s Pitch van that sells both kippers, Lorne sausage, and the World Famous Auchtermuchty (a mix of haggis and bacon) – a very Anglo-Scottish offering!
From here it’s a 1.3 mile walk through fields and along the shoreline to the ruins of the 14th century castle. Today it’s run by English Heritage and it’s possible to explore inside. A family ticket is £15.30, or free to members – book here. Alternatively, admire the exteriors and retrace your steps (again, very similar to Dunnottar Castle).
6 – Holy Island, Lindisfarne Castle and Lindisfarne Priory
My kids were vocally apprehensive about visiting the tidal Holy Isle. They honestly feared we may be trapped there for a very long time. Yes, you have to pay attention to the tide times to drive over the causeway from the mainland to the Holy Island, but it’s so exciting! Each day is different, but we crossed about 10am, and knew we had to stay on the island till 2.30pm. Simple.
Our first stop was Lindisfarne Priory, which felt strangely familiar because I’ve been to the abbey on the Isle of Iona off the west coast of Scotland. From Iona St Aidan made his way to Lindisfarne to spread the word of Christianity on the mainland. Visitors start in a small museum, where the history is summed up — from St Aidan, to Viking threats and troublesome Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries. Next you head to the priory itself, which is atmospheric and intriguing. The Priory is another English Heritage property, so click here to book. Family tickets are £20.50, and it’s free to members.
The priory is very central in the island’s main village so we grabbed a hot chocolate at Pilgrims Coffee, before following a coastal walk to Lindisfarne Castle. I love the glamorous back story here since it was once the holiday home of the founder of Country Life magazine. He invited all his exotic friends and leading lights of the Arts and Crafts movement to party, create and indulge. The castle was closed when we visited, but it’s a lovely walk regardless. Today the castle is under the stewardship of the National Trust so to explore inside buy tickets here – £20 for a family ticket and free for members.
From Edinburgh – Private Bamburgh and Lindisfarne Tour
From Edinburgh – Holy Island, Bamburgh & Northumbria Tour
7 – Bamburgh Castle & Beach
Close to the Holy Island is the vast Bamburgh castle. This fortress is so impressive, and dominates the skyline as you approach. Kids can explore watch towers, discover a bell as big as they are and march along the castle walls. There’s also an Activity Book to complete. Due to Bamburgh’s location it was a key target for pretty much everyone, from the Vikings and William the Conqueror to the Scots, who were a real nightmare :-). After all the violence I’m surprised the castle’s still standing, but it’s pristine with grand interiors to boot. Highlights include the elegant Great Hall, the armoury and then under stairs to the kitchen and dungeon. A family ticket is £32.95 and it’s possible to book here.
Don’t forget to spend time on the stunning Bamburgh beach after visiting the castle.
From Edinburgh – Private Bamburgh and Lindisfarne Tour
From Edinburgh – Holy Island, Bamburgh & Northumbria Tour
From Edinburgh – Day Trip to Bamburgh and Alnwick Castle
8 – Beaches
Beaches in Northumberland deserve their own category. I’ve already mentioned Alnmouth and Bamburgh, but we also appreciated Beadnell and Seahouses. Others worth mentioning are Druridge Bay, Warkworth, Blyth, Cresswell and Spittal.
9 Head Inland to Flodden Field – Ford & Etal Estate
Just over the border from the Scottish town of Coldstream is the windswept Flodden Field where the Scotland’s King James IV fell in 1513. Today, a memorial cross marks the land where around 14,000 men fell in the space of a few hours.
Walk ten minutes to the nearby village of Braxton to visit the tiniest quirkiest Visitor Centre I’ve experienced. The Flodden Visitor Centre is set within a bright red phone box – play the audio guide, read the displays and analyse the army positions/tactics on the map.
10 Hay Farm Heavy Horse Centre – Ford & Etal Estate
Hay Farm Heavy Horse Centre showcases big horses including Clydesdales, Shires and the Suffolk Punch. Visitors learn from display boards and videos how heavy horses were used in the war years, especially WW1, when Britain lost around 484,000 horses were acquired for the war effort. Old farm machinery is also on display. The highlight is naturally the stables where you get up close and personal to these fine beasts. Each horse’s name and character is highlighted on boards, alongside info about how the animals are kept and looked after. The visit is self-led, ideally I would have appreciated someone in the stables to learn a little more from, especially if I was visiting with kids.
In the farmyard see ducks and visit the rare breed pigs – British Lops. Then head to the cafe to try their excellent British Lop pork pies! In the summer, the farm offers afternoon carriage rides from the centre for £5 per adult. Entry is £7.50 per adult.
11 See Ford Castle, and visit Ford village and Lady Waterford Hall – Ford & Etal Estate
For something altogether more calming drive to the quaint village of Ford, which has a toy town or model town appearance. It was built by Lady Waterford when she inherited Ford Castle in 1859. Today the castle is a children’s activity centre but you can still pull in and admire the grand building’s exteriors and frontage.
FREE – Lady Waterford Hall was built as a school hall in 1860. The biblical scenes on the walls were painted by Lady Waterford herself over around twenty years. It’s very sweet that many of the children depicted in the watercolours were children from the estate. The staff are so helpful, summing up the history, and really add life to the visit.
Ford’s picture perfect post office also houses a small cafe (that also sells ice cream) if you’re seeking a pitstop.
12 Heatherslaw Corn Mill and Railway – Ford & Etal Estate
England’s most northerly steam railway runs daily during the season, between 11am and 3.30pm. The Heatherslaw Light Railway timetable and prices can be found here, but a family ticket (two adults and two children) is currently £26.
The neighbouring 18th centre water mill powered by the River Till welcomes guests for £12 for a family ticket (two adults and up to three children). Heatherslaw Corn Mill also has bakery classes (for adults) that can be booked. I dropped by the cafe for tea and cake, and picked up some muesli in the mill gift shop, which also sells flour ground on site.
10 – There’s More!
Trips we didn’t do, but would love to try next time. Firstly, the boat trips from Seahouses to the Farne Islands for a spot of bird and seal spotting. There’s a section of Hadrian’s Wall to consider as well as the national park Northumberlandia. There are several more castles and country houses to explore – from Belsay and Seaton Deleval to Cragside. The Kielder Observatory and Dark Sky Park are worth mentioning as some of the very best sites to star gaze in the UK.
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